Sweets News

Here are your Sweets News items for February 26, 2005:

Mary's Dairy has opened up a new branch at 158 1st Avenue. In addition to super-premium ice cream, the store is now offering Valrhona-coated fruits, pretzels, marshmallows and graham crackers.

Cha-An, a Japanese "tea & sweets" house, has opened at 230 East 9th Street. Try the green-tea truffles and black sesame creme brulee!

Tarallucci E Vino, the authentic Italian pastry and sandwich shop at 163 First Avenue, is now selling boxed MarieBelle truffles.

And finally, if you think The Gates look good enough to eat, Two Little Red Hens is paying homage to the exhibit by serving up cupcakes with "saffron-colored" icing. (Sunday is the last day to enjoy them!)

La Palapa Rockola

Walking through the West Village on a cold, windy day, I craved some hearty fare. My plan was to head down to No. 26 for a big sandwich on ciabatta, but I happened to notice La Palapa Rockola on the way. It had somehow slipped my mind that the popular East Village Mexican had opened a 6th Avenue outpost.

My stomach growled. The restaurant manager saw me peering intensely into the restaurant window and opened the door. "Why don't you come inside, it's cold out there." That bit of hospitality (and the promise of rice and beans) was enough to change my plans. Happily, I sat down to a cup of Moka D'Oro and looked over the menu.

The specials included an enticing roasted corn soup. On the regular menu were tortas (Mexican sandwiches), assorted quesadillas and tacos stuffed with such goodies as chile-rubbed pork and char-grilled marinated skirt steak, large entrees like enchiladas and shrimp in garlic sauce, and even a 3-course meal that ended with one's choice of Mexican chocolate pudding or flan.

I had a feeling that I'd be eating quite a lot, so I decided not to fill up on the hand-cut tortilla chips. I started with the soup, which was a delicious, creamy puree of sweet roasted corn with a mound of huitlacoche (corn mushrooms) and tangy sour cream floating on top. The hearty soup was almost a meal in itself.

Never one to stop at soup, however, I also ordered a poblano chile quesadilla and a side of beans and rice. Although La Palapa Rockola serves its quesadillas in flour tortillas, my request for a corn tortilla was cheerfully accommodated. The slightly crisp tortilla, cut in quarters, was chock-full of melted cheese and spicy peppers. I dipped it in salsa verde and pico de gallo. The refried black beans were sprinkled with melted queso anejo, and the tomato rice was fragrant with saffron. I was certainly glad I'd stopped in!

La Palapa Rockola: 359 6th Ave., (212) 243-6870.

Chocolate And Lavender

Lavender is known for its calming properties. According to a University of Miami study, just three minutes of lavender aromatherapy left participants feeling more relaxed. But if all you have is one minute, I'd suggest picking up a chocolate-lavender Tranquility bar. I found this Belgian chocolate bar at Zeytuna's downtown, and felt wonderful after just one bite!

New Tree USA chocolate bars are sold at several NYC gourmet groceries, including Zeytuna: 99 William St., (212) 742-2436, and A.L. Bazzini.

Sarabeth's East

Pardon me a moment while I wipe the chocolate pudding off of my computer keyboard. As I type this, I'm spooning out every last chocolate shaving, mound of whipped cream and smidgen of chocolate custard from a glass jar (courtesy of Sarabeth's East). I made out like a bandit today at the famous bakery-restaurant, bringing home some chocolate cherry bread, brownies, chocolate souffle cake (do you sense a theme here?) and the above-mentioned pudding.

Honestly, I didn't intend to come away with so many goodies. My original intention was to indulge my rediscovered appetite for breakfast. I was already familiar with Sarabeth's excellent, naturally-thickened preserves, and I'd fantasized about spreading the strawberry-peach jam on a fresh hot scone.

I was amazed at the line of people waiting when I arrived around 1 p.m. (Sarabeth's only takes dinner reservations.) However, I had plenty of entertainment looking at the display case full of baked goods.

The wait was only ten minutes. Soon, after making that age-old decision between sweet and savory, I was enjoying a delightful breakfast. A scrumptious cherry-shallot dressing livened up some mixed greens. White truffle oil added an earthy complexity to a potato leek spinach soup. Three-pepper home fries were nicely browned, although the peppers and onions arrived in a heap over the potatoes (I prefer them interspersed). The smoked salmon eggs Benedict consisted of two Hollandaise-glazed jumbo eggs, which sat happily atop two homemade cornmeal-dusted English muffins amid a garnish of diced sweet red peppers and scallions. Raisin scones, which weren't served warmed, were nevertheless buttery and delicious. I slathered them with the strawberry-peach preserves.

The hearty meal held me until now, hence my voracious chocolate pudding consumption. Excuse me while I enjoy the last bite!

Sarabeth's (East) 1295 Madison Ave., (212) 410-7335. There are also locations at 423 Amsterdam Ave. and 945 Madison Ave., as well as a bakery at Chelsea Market.

Get Out Of Town!

Although I've been fending off the winter blues with numerous cups of cocoa, the latest subzero spell has drained me. Noticing my gloominess, my companion suggested that we rejuvenate ourselves with a bed-and-breakfast stay.

Armed with "Frommer's Wonderful Weekends from New York City" and the Internet, I set about finding an inn that was close to the LIRR. During my Web search, I happened upon the homepage of the Mill House Inn. I'd had a couple other places in mind for our excursion, but when I clicked on the Mill House breakfast menu, my mind was made up.

When we arrived, we were greeted by six canisters of cookies, a friendly dog named Corey, and Sylvia, the co-owner of the inn. Sylvia invited us to help ourselves to the cookies, and then led us into the dining room, which offered delicious hot cider, Mill House coffee and Bencheley tea. I accompanied my cider with homemade chocolate-chip and double chocolate-chip cookies. My mood was beginning to lighten (if not my weight). While I was munching, a guest sang the praises of the Mill House morning meal. "It's legendary," she said, "but you can only enjoy it if you're staying here. I'm meeting a real estate broker, and he asked me if he could pretend to be my guest just so he could have the breakfast." I couldn't wait for Sunday morning.

An invigorating scrub with honey-lemongrass soap and a soak in a lavender-scented whirlpool bath were a wonderful prelude to a nap under a goose-down comforter. (Later, we roused ourselves for an exquisite dinner at Della Femina. This restaurant is truly a subject for another post, but I must mention in passing their astonishing banana chocolate-chip croissant bread pudding. I'd never eaten a bread pudding made from croissants, and the flaky dough added extra butter to what was already a decadent treat.)

The next morning, we made sure to wake up by 10, as the brunch at Mill House is served only until 10:30. In the dining room, the four round wooden tables were festooned with poinsettias, and sunlight streamed through the windows. Smiling, I picked up my menu, to be met with the most daunting breakfast decision ever. I craved eggs, but did I want them scrambled with house-cured salmon, mascarpone, Vidalia onions and asparagus, or in egg nog form in the three-slice brioche French toast, or in a crawfish Andouille etoufee, or fried with chorizo, ancho, chipotle and pasillo peppers and tortillas, or how about in a five-cheese (mozzarella, grana padano, mascarpone, ricotta salata and Parmigiano Reggiano) frittata? And if I didn't want eggs, there were blueberry pancakes with Vermont maple syrup, grilled sandwiches, even three kinds of pizza!

With a bit of gracious guidance from Sylvia, we finally decided on the Irish oatmeal, green eggs and ham, scrambled eggs gratin, homefries and toast. We were first served a selection of fresh fruits with Champagne mint honey syrup (excellent over the blackberries).

Then it was time for... the best breakfast I can remember eating. Satisfyingly chewy Irish oatmeal arrived with a stripe of sweet berry compote and hot milk. My eggs gratin was a casserole of soft, Gruyere-gooey scrambled eggs, topped with snipped chives, shredded Parmigiano Reggiano and a sprinkling of breadcrumbs over a layer of caramelized onions and leeks, and then another layer of eggs. My companion's green eggs and ham, also served in a casserole, was quite generous with the Canadian bacon, spinach and Brie. The homemade sweet-tart ketchup was tasty, but the amazing Yukon Gold homefries needed no condiments. The crunchy-soft potato cubes were browned in olive oil and white wine and seasoned with garlic and thyme. And I couldn't even finish the hearty seven-grain toast and Vermont farm butter.

Our spirits lifted, and our bodies nutritionally fortified against any possible weather conditions, we packed up and made a note to return again soon.

The Mill House Inn: 31 North Main St., East Hampton, (631) 324-9766.

Four Reasons To Go Outside

As my hands turned red and my eyelashes threatened to freeze together, I chastised myself for venturing out into the Arctic weather. However, it was just then that I noticed a sign advertising four kinds of hot chocolate (orange, mint, praline and cinnamon)! The sign belonged to Manon Cafe, a cafe owned by Leonidas Chocolate.

I'm rather particular about hot chocolate. A regular cup of cocoa won't do... no powdered hydrogenated vegetable oil or flavored corn syrup for me! I need the real thing: melted squares of rich chocolate, smoothly blended with steamed milk. On several occasions, I have greatly enjoyed Leonidas' chocolate truffles, so I decided to try my luck with their hot chocolate.

I walked past the truffle display and up the steps to the cafe. Behind the counter, I saw what appeared to be bottles of flavored syrup. Disappointed, I asked the cashier if the syrups provided the flavors for the advertised hot chocolate.

"No!" he exclaimed. "Our hot chocolate is made only with squares of our pure Leonidas chocolate, blended with hot milk."

That clinched it. I ordered a large "Manon Mint" hot chocolate, which was thrillingly rich and creamy. The cup warmed my hands and the hot chocolate warmed my insides, making my trip outside thoroughly worthwhile.

Manon Cafe: 3 Hanover Square, (212) 422-9600.

Centolire

My grandmother, who frequented Elio's for years, has recently grown tired of the noisy room, the haphazard service, and the crush of patrons waiting at the bar. I know how much she loves her red-sauce Italian, so I set about finding a replacement.

Centolire, also on the Upper East Side, is a perfect alternative. The restaurant, so large that it previously housed an elementary school, offers plenty of room in which to breathe. We've been several times now, and we love the magical upstairs dining room.

We knew we were in for a treat when we first stepped off of the elevator onto the second floor. In the center of the golden-lit room was a large wooden table on which sat a large wheel of Parmigiano Reggiano, a prosciutto-slicer, a cutting board with slices of Italian salami, and a bowl of fresh cantaloupe. The well-appointed table and the cozy corner bar made us feel like we were in the dining room of a beloved friend.

The service was as welcoming as the atmosphere. Our gracious waiter brought by a complementary bowl of olive-oil drizzled peppered ricotta and a basket of focaccia. While we munched and deliberated over the menu, the table next to us enjoyed tableside preparations of truffled fettucini carbonara and Caesar salad.

Our chosen indulgences were the special three-bean greens soup, a wondrously garlicky clams in white wine sauce appetizer, breaded veal milanese (as big as a pizza) accompanied by sweet roasted baby Brussels sprouts, and a slightly browned pan-seared meaty organic striped bass. There was a slight delay with my entree, so the lovely manager, Gianfranco, threw in a free dessert: a thick slice of pound cake covered with creamy mascarpone mousse and a tumble of fresh strawberries! (We also loved the tiramisu. For those with foresight, a chocolate-mocha souffle is available if you order it at the beginning of the meal.) Not surprisingly, I am now a loyal patron.

Centolire: 1167 Madison Ave., (212) 734-7711.

Sympathy For The Kettle

Every so often, there's a newspaper article touting the health benefits of tea. Although I've yet to see a similar article about the benefits of truffles and pound cake, I quite enjoy the tea-flavored treats at Sympathy For The Kettle.

The funky East Village tearoom doesn't have much space in which to sit down, but it's chock-full of goodies like vanilla rooibos rose buttercream cake, lavender bars, rose truffles, orange apricot rooibos bread and bergamot-flecked, citrusy Earl Grey-iced pound cake. And if you want to bake your own goodies, there are over a hundred varieties of loose tea you can take home to experiment with!

Sympathy For The Kettle: 109 St. Marks Place, (212) 979-1650.

Read It And Eat...

This book looks like it's worth its weight in pastrami.

Lombardi's Original Pizza

Lespinasse and La Caravelle are long gone, but the coal-fired oven at Lombardi's Original Pizza keeps on chugging. I'm ashamed to admit that until last night, I hadn't yet visited this venerable pizzeria, which is the oldest in the United States. (The famous oven proudly sports the year "1905" in blue tile. Nostalgics will appreciate the old-time atmosphere and memorabilia; one could say that Lombardi's is a "slice" of old New York.)

Recently, Lombardi's underwent a renovation and expansion that will better accommodate its hordes of diners. Last night, my friends and I were soon seated at a round table in the newer front room.

I was immediately impressed with the toppings menu, which was more extensive than that of my local favorite, Nick's Pizza. The oven-roasted red peppers appealed to me, and the white pizza with clams sounded intriguing. We ordered the clam pizza and a traditional tomato pie, half pepperoni and half peppers.

The clam pizza was pleasantly garlicky, topped with breadcrumbs, Parmesan and a veritable avalanche of clams. Actually, I think that the amount of clams detracted from the pizza, and some of them were rubbery and overly chewy.

I then turned my attention to the more traditional pizza. In order to enthrall me, a red pizza must pass three tests: the sauce must not be too sweet, there should be a generous layer of fresh mozzarella, and, most important: the crust should be tasty enough to eat by itself.

The sauce definitely passed muster; the San Marzano tomatoes made it vibrantly flavorful. I also enjoyed the sweet red peppers. However, the cheese was missing some of the fresh, milky quality that I find at Nick's and Franny's. (Nick's Pizza has fresh mozzarella prepared especially for them every other day, and Franny's uses the unimpeachable Lioni's.) And when I looked at my companion's plate, large pieces of charred crust remained on it. (Some people gripe about the slightly charred crust at Nick's, but at Lombardi's, the charring was decidedly more pronounced.)

Still, the piping hot pizza was definitely enjoyable; I'd return just to try all the other toppings!

Lombardi's Original Pizza: 32 Spring St., (212) 941-7994.

Sweets News

The cream puff craze has spread to the Upper East Side! Just five days ago, the Choux Factory opened up on 1st Avenue and 87th Street. Besides serving cream puffs filled with rich vanilla, strawberry and chocolate custards, the Choux Factory offers terrific Kona coffee.

Choux Factory: 1685 1st Ave., (212) 289-2023.

'Tis The Season For Ravioli

Still haven't decided what to serve the guests tonight at your New Year's Eve bash? Well, you have about 30 minutes to run over to The Ravioli Store in SoHo. Their seasonal raviolis (Yukon potato truffle in chive pasta, butternut squash and sweet potato in sweet potato pasta, and duck confit in egg pasta) are sure to be the life of the party.

The Ravioli Store: 75 Sullivan St., (212) 925-1737. Open till 5 p.m. today unless there is a great rush of customers, in which case they plan to stay open later.

EN Japanese Brasserie

TriBeCa is becoming the mecca for innovative Japanese cuisine, first with Nobu, now Megu and EN Japanese Brasserie. My companion and I had wanted to dine at EN ever since reading about their housemade tofu, produced on a movie-like schedule every night (6, 7:30, 9, 10:30 and 11:30 p.m.).

We were led to a communal table around a sand garden lit with votives. (There are also private rooms, a sushi bar, large tables and a separate bar and lounge area.) After bathing our hands in hot towels, we proceeded to be completely overwhelmed by the menu, which was divided into: tofu/yuba appetizers, small cold plates, small hot plates, large grill and kitchen plates, rice and noodles, and sushi/sashimi. The drink selection was equally overwhelming, including alcoholic beverages made from barley, sweet potato, sugar cane, buckwheat and rice in addition to wine and sake. (We settled on the non-alcoholic barley tea, Japanese peach juice and aloe juice.)

There were so many intriguing-sounding dishes... garlic shiso fried rice, miso-grilled black cod... that we gave up on trying to decide between them and ordered the 7-course omakase for two. The waiter informed us that although each course would be chosen especially by the chef, any dishes that we were particularly attached to could be included. I knew we would want the seared belly of tuna, but that was the only decision I made.

Our first course was a trio of cold appetizers: gelatinous green konnyaku in a bracing miso vinaigrette, creamy fresh tofu custard which we splashed with ginger soy sauce, and thin slices of Kyoto-style yuba "sashimi". The yuba, which is the byproduct of making soymilk, had the chewy consistency of part-skim mozzarella and a mild milk taste.

After this refreshing course, we were served a bowl of mugwort wheat gnocchi in a daikon radish and ginger broth. Then, we received what was perhaps the highlight of my night: the chu-toro course! Five seared slabs of fatty belly tuna were hot pink rainbows of pure pleasure. Slightly charred on the outside, on the inside they were meaty and meltingly tender.

The next item on the agenda was oyster teriyaki: a plump oyster, chosen for its extra-large liver, sat atop a dense potato-like daikon cylinder.

By this time we were already full, but there were still three courses left! The two courses before dessert were a grill-your-own Wagyu beef and a sushi course. It was fun to grill the tender pieces of marbled Wagyu on a hot stone for 5 seconds on each side, and the accompanying matsutake mushrooms (apparently prized as an aphrodisiac!) were unique and flavorful.

The sushi course, which arrived with a bowl of crab miso soup, was a meal in itself. There were five pieces of sushi, including creamy, sweet sea urchin, fresh-water eel, tuna, snapper and yellowtail, and a few pieces of cucumber eel maki. Each piece of fish was sparklingly fresh.

Finally, it was time for the generous dessert: soba tea pudding. The rich milk custard was faintly nutty with the taste of buckwheat. On another occasion, I might have enjoyed something more elaborate such as wagashi (multi-colored Japanese pastries), but this epic meal was best ended with simplicity.

EN Japanese Brasserie: 435 Hudson St., (212) 647-9196.

Battle of the Brunches (Part 2): Arepas

Note: It's been quite a while since I conducted an informal battle of the brunches. I hope to do this with increasing frequency.

I'm a big fan of anything made with cornmeal: polenta, tortillas, cornbread, grits, pupusas, and, of course, the delightful Venezuelan arepa. This white cornmeal cake is not only a sturdy pocket for various fillings such as cheese or roast meat, but it's also tasty with just a pat of butter. This week, I compared the arepa breakfasts at two Venezuelan cafes in the East Village: Flor's Kitchen and Caracas Arepa Bar.

At Caracas Arepa Bar, I ordered the Desayuno Criollo ($9.95) and received a large plate of huevos pericos, or eggs scrambled with peppers, onions and tomatoes, a healthy portion of black beans (shredded beef is also an option), a small salad with tomatoes and hearts of palm, a tropical juice (I chose guava) and a plain arepa. The scrambled eggs were fluffy and the guava juice was thick and sweet. However, the arepa was a disappointment: small and hard, it was rather more like a biscuit.

I had the exact opposite experience at Flor's Kitchen (which recently opened up a new location in the West Village due to its extreme popularity - NOTE: 1st Ave. location closed in 2007). I again ordered the huevos pericos ($6.50, with fried plantains instead of beans and salad) and a guava juice. The juice was iced and tart instead of sweet, and the scrambled eggs were unappealingly watery. But the arepa: what a revelation! Moist, light, buttery and piping hot, it was everything the ideal cornmeal cake should be. In the future, I guess I'll just have to make an afternoon of my arepas and brunch at both restaurants on the same day.

Caracas Arepa Bar: 91 East 7th St., (212) 228-5062. Flor's Kitchen: 149 1st Ave., (212) 387-8949.

Podunk

On my way to check out Jewel Bako Robatayaki (which, contrary to media reports, has not yet opened), I became aware of the charming existence of Podunk, a tiny tea room that would fit right into a small New England town.

Along with a homey atmosphere, Podunk offers an impressive, ever-changing assortment of home-baked goods. There are both sweet and savory scones (today: cranberry, strawberry, spinach feta and Andouille sausage), tarts, herbed foccaccias, and brownies with that sticky, caramel chewiness that results from a generous hand with the butter. (I was also very taken with the flaky, buttery scones.)

Podunk: 231 East 5th St., (212) 677-7722.

The Perfect Coffeemaker For New Yorkers

If you're like most New Yorkers, you have no time and even less kitchen space. You needed a cup of strong coffee this morning, but in your haste to get home last night, you forgot to buy filters for the machine.

I had solved my filter dilemma by making coffee with the filterless Saeco Vienna Deluxe. Every morning, I would fill the machine with Sumatran coffee beans and watch the grinding and tamping with admiration. However, the Deluxe was quite messy to clean, as I had to open it up, withdraw several different compartments, and scrub off layers of coffee grounds. The machine also claimed a lot of precious counter space.

Enter the amazing Nespresso coffeemaker. Tiny in comparison to my Saeco Deluxe, it uses capsules of ground coffee to produce astonishingly good coffee. You can make a large or small cup, and there are 10 different strengths available. I was very skeptical at first; how could a capsule compare to freshly ground beans? But my Arpeggio coffee was smooth, rich and topped with a fine layer of crema.

Best of all, the machine requires almost no cleaning; you just empty the capsule compartment!

Hearth

I'd been dying to visit Hearth ever since I saw that the restaurant had won a Best Desserts of 2004 award. After weeks of trying, I was finally able to secure a reservation for my birthday!

The weather was especially frigid last night, and Hearth's spiced masala chocolate, buttered rum, greenmarket cider, and mulled wine sounded like the perfect antidote. However, unbeknownst to me, my mother (who lives in Florida) had called the restaurant beforehand and ordered us a bottle of champagne. (I don't know how she got the number, because I don't even remember telling her where we were going!)

This warm gesture set the mood for a lovely evening. Our waitress brought by the amuse-bouche, a small glass of creamy parsnip soup. After a salad of baby lettuce and beets in a shallot-red wine vinaigrette, we anxiously awaited the red snapper crudo appetizer. What a luxurious dish it was! The paper-thin slices of pristine pink fish were accented with fried rosemary leaves, grains of sea salt and preserved lemon. Each slice of snapper was served atop a small mound of minced fish to mimic a sushi preparation.

The gnocchi were divine. I instantly forgot all of those regrettable potato gumdrops I'd consumed in the past. These were light as air and melted in my mouth in a puff of butter, pepper and Parmesan.

We then indulged in the roasted striped bass in black truffle vinaigrette on a parsley root puree, which was served with sweet-as-honey parsnips, Brussels sprouts, and cauliflower, and a plate of roasted dry-aged sirloin and braised shortribs au jus with mustard greens, turnips, and baby beets. By now we were quite full, but no birthday dinner should lack dessert! So, we ordered the tangy goat-milk panna cotta and the moist olive oil cake, which came with a scoop of burnt-sugar ice cream and spiced roasted pears. A bit of sea salt brought out the sweetness in the cake. (Charmingly, the pastry chef had iced "Happy Birthday" on the edges of the plate.)

We finished with some Guatemala Antigua rich coffee, but there was yet one more surprise. The waitress, instead of bringing over the bill, informed us that my mother had decided to pick up the check. (Thanks, Mom!)

Hearth: 403 East 12th St., (646) 602-1300.

Nice Matin

Open since April 2003, Nice Matin has lost none of its buzz; the restaurant was absolutely packed last night. And after just one bite of the fava bean tortelloni, I could see why. Our food was so appealing that even the picky eater among us forgot to be picky.

I chose Nice Matin because I was charmed to see a "Five-Napkin Burger" on the otherwise Provencal menu. This would be just the thing for our beloved picky eater, while I could order the grilled sea bass with olive-oil stewed artichokes.

The menu listed both hors d'oeuvres, like sardines and panisses, and larger appetizers. I knew that everyone would enjoy the panisses (chick-pea fritters cut in French-fry-like rectangles and served with garlic mayonnaise), but I had no idea how fast they would disappear! People who had never seen a garbanzo bean inhaled them, and soon it was time to order seconds.

The experience was repeated with the tortelloni. The plump pouches of noodle, each stuffed with a bit of green fava, were generously buttered and soon devoured. (This time, the picky eater ordered another round.) We also enjoyed a white bean and bacon soup, and a refreshing frisee, pear, orange and almond salad.

By now, I was half-stuffed, but it was time for our crowd-pleasing entrees: the aforementioned burger (sans Comte cheese), the classic steak frites (a giant piece of meat), and my delectable grilled sea bass, which was served on a bed of rich pureed potatoes and surrounded by olive oil-bathed artichokes.

No sooner had I finished the last bite that the dessert menu arrived. There were several flavors of homemade ice creams and sorbets, such as cinnamon and green apple. But I had my heart set on a more substantial dessert and mustered up my little remaining appetite to enjoy the gingerbread trifle and mascarpone mousse. It arrived in a lovely little parfait glass, which was soon emptied by... the picky eater.

Nice Matin: 201 West 79th St., (212) 873-6423.

Sweets News

NYC is a city of every imaginable dessert, from chocolates to cream puffs to brownies. Up until now, however, our city hasn't been known for its beignets. That could change with the opening of The Bourgeois Pig, a cozy New Orleans-style cafe which specializes in the sugar-dusted fritters. Order a plain or a chocolate-filled beignet with a mug of strong coffee, and you'll be instantly transported to the French Quarter without even having to leave Manhattan.

The Bourgeois Pig: 122 East 7th St., (212) 475-2246.

Kitchen Arts & Letters

If you were thinking of (gasp) cooking for the holidays, you'll find plenty of inspiration at the only NYC bookstore completely devoted to the subject of food: Kitchen Arts & Letters. KAL offers an extraordinary variety of cookbooks, but for those of us more inclined to dine out, there's also a great selection of NYC food guides such as New York’s 50+ Best Places to Enjoy Dessert. (You'll find this particular gem right by the cash register.)

Kitchen Arts & Letters: 1435 Lexington Ave., (212) 876-5550.

Pure Food And Wine

Feeling rather sheepish about my Thanksgiving overindulgence, I opted for a healthier meal last night. I invited two friends to Pure Food And Wine, the 8-month-old raw-foods restaurant in Gramercy Park. (It's also the city's only raw-foods restaurant that serves saketinis.)

Our meal ended up being surprisingly hearty, much more so than in previous raw-foods experiences. Although the portions were not large, we were reasonably stuffed after two appetizers, three entrees and two desserts. We began with the cauliflower samosas, served on a square plate and drizzled with banana tamarind sauce, and the young coconut noodles interspersed with julienned radish and papaya in a spicy coriander peanut sauce. Coconut was to feature prominently in the evening's dishes, forming the samosa pockets and providing richness in the desserts.

The entrees were as follows: a zucchini tomato lasagna with pine nut cheese and fresh basil pesto (the tomatoes were summer-ripe), beet ravioli stuffed with a surprisingly ricotta-like cashew cheese (my favorite entrée), and three corn tortillas filled with chunky guacamole and tomato-lime salsa. Although I am not accustomed to food served below 118 degrees, the intense flavors and garden-fresh ingredients made the meal a satisfying one.

Dessert was perhaps the highlight of the evening. The pumpkin pie (a misnomer, as the filling is made from carrots) was a delicious tart on a nut crust with a scoop of ginger ice cream, and dark chocolate ganache cake was surely the richest item on the menu. I wondered how the chef was able to so closely approximate the dense consistency of a flourless chocolate cake; the waiter informed us that the cake contained only cocoa, maple syrup and coconut oil. So much for my ascetic meal!

Pure Food And Wine: 54 Irving Place, (212) 477-1010.

Have A Tasty Thanksgiving!

If you don't plan to cook your own feast, there are still many available restaurants at which you can celebrate!

Sweets News

Can you eat over two pounds of chocolate in one sitting? If so, the 2.2 lb. "Big Daddy" chocolate bar at the new Jacques Torres Chocolate Haven is just what you're looking for! It also makes a terrific gift for your favorite chocolate lover.

And as of tomorrow, the Haven's chocolate factory will be in full operation. You'll witness the wondrous process of chocolate creation from start to finish!

Jacques Torres Chocolate Haven: 350 Hudson St., (718) 875-9772.

Franny's

Since I have the luxury of living near Nick's Pizza, I rarely go searching for other pizzerias. Last night, however, I had such a spectacular pizza experience in Brooklyn that I will be regularly commuting there.

Franny's, a gourmet pizzeria so proud of its ingredients that it lists their origins on the back of the menu, has set a whole new standard for NYC pizza. Garlic salami, fennel sausage and guanciale are house-made and all produce is organically grown.

Last night, my companion and I started off with some Montepulciano d'Abruzzo and a couple appetizers: crumbled egg and bottarga crostini and roasted beet salad. Although the crostini were tasty and the roasted beets were sweet (if overpowered by a bit too much pistachio salsa), we soon realized that our appetite would have been better spent on the utterly dreamy pizza. Hearing the waiter's footsteps, we looked up expectantly and were met by a free-form beauty of a pizza, randomly charred, spattered with fresh melted mozzarella, and sprinkled with thinly-sliced cloves of garlic and whole black olives. And what a crust... crispy, moist and light at the same time!

I longed to try the four-cheese pizza (mozzarella, ricotta, Gorgonzola & Fontina), but my companion had no room. So I consoled myself with a vanilla bean-speckled panna cotta accented with tangy, syrupy saba (an Italian grape-juice beverage).

But it's that pizza I'll be thinking about all week.

Franny's: 295 Flatbush Ave., Brooklyn, (718) 230-0221. Closed Mondays and the last Tuesday of every month.

Invitation to a Wine Tasting

Celebrate the end of the workweek with a free Italian wine tasting! This Friday evening, the Chelsea Wine Vault will offer great Italian wines, cheese and bread. To sign up, please send an E-mail to info@shopwineanddineitaly.com.

Chelsea Wine Vault: 75 9th Ave., (212) 462-4244. The tasting will be held from 4-7 p.m. this Friday, Nov. 5.

Applewood

What an amazing transformation the space at 501 11th Street has undergone! Formerly a struggling open-mike bar showcasing dangerously off-key singers, it is now a charming restaurant that manages to be both sophisticated and cozy at the same time. Just a bit off of Park Slope's 7th Avenue, Applewood embodies all of brownstone Brooklyn's charm while providing a wonderful dining experience.

Various pumpkins decorate the entrance and a real fireplace warms up the room. As you enter, you will see wooden shelves featuring jars of homemade spicy peach jam and tomato basil sauce ($5 each). (You will probably also see the affable owners holding their 10-day-old infant. So adorable is this baby that you might be distracted from the menu. But don't worry, the promise of ricotta dumplings with braised pork shoulder will soon reclaim your attention.)

My friend and I began our meal with reasonably-priced Dom Martinho red wine and sliced baguettes with three spreads: roasted garlic puree, French butter and delectable fig jam. We lingered over the bread and wine for a little while because the menu listed so many attractive options. I had a craving for root vegetables and initially wanted the rutabaga soup, but then I saw the potato and root vegetable "pave" with black peppercorn-goat cheese fondue on the entrée list. My companion was rather disappointed to find that the signature duck in applewood-smoked bacon sauce was unavailable.

As you can imagine, we solved these dilemmas in the most delicious way possible. Our shared appetizer was a light, astringent ceviche spiced up with toasted coriander seeds and drizzled with chili oil and avocado mousse. Then, deprived of the duck, my companion opted for the "tenderest ever" grass-fed lamb on a bed of creamy polenta which was encircled with dollops of black olive sauce. I received my allotment of root vegetables in the "pave", which was a kind of sliced root vegetable napoleon. Dipping the potatoes and rutabagas into the tangy goat cheese fondue was a sumptuous experience.

As the temperature drops, it's time for comfort carbohydrates, and dessert at Applewood is a great opportunity to indulge in them! My friend's flourless chocolate cake was among the best I've ever tasted; served with a side of Earl Grey ice cream and topped with real whipped cream, the cake was more like a warm souffle. Each gooey mouthful was a tidal wave of chocolate flavor. I ended up eating half of the cake, even though I had ordered the spiced hot chocolate and homemade Oreos. Once you try this hot chocolate, you will never feel the same about mulled apple cider. You may just crave hot chocolate from now on! (My friend pronounced the beverage "Christmas in a cup.") The accompanying Oreos were small but deceptively rich with a buttercream filling.

Intriguing fennel meringues completed our meal, and then we reluctantly stepped out of the dream back onto the street.

Applewood: 501 11th St., Brooklyn. (718) 768-2044

Zaitzeff

Hungry as can be, I took stock of the dreary dining options along Nassau Street. To my right, there was a Blimpie's, and further down, a Wendy's. Sighing, I turned to my left and saw… a small miracle: Zaitzeff.

Zaitzeff is a burger place that cares! It does the Burger Joint in Le Parker Meridien one better, and serves up patties of organic meatloaf, Kobe beef, and even tuna steak in addition to the regular sirloin. Each burger is lovingly set upon a Portuguese muffin and topped with ripe red tomatoes, horseradish cream, and (if you wish) hefty slices of avocado, grilled onions and cheese.

The sandwiches are quite substantial, but if you must eat further (as I do), there are mixed green salads and heaps of sweet potato and russet French fries. And, when by the cash register, don't overlook the plates piled high with housemade cookies, muffins and brownies. (Some of the brownies are cut larger than others; I left you the biggest one.)

One final tip: try to get to Zaitzeff before the lunch crush; as word spreads around the area, large companies are increasingly ordering 40 burgers at a time!

Zaitzeff: 72 Nassau St., (212) 571-7272.

Kalustyan's Masala Café

If you're wandering around Curry Hill in search of some chana masala, you might be sidetracked by the orange lights of Kalustyan's Masala Café. Although you won't find your beloved North Indian favorites there, you will experience a magical meal of exotic spices and unusual flavors. (And you may have many questions for the waiters regarding the ingredients!)

Last night, my companion and I pounced upon the last table for two. Soon, we were tearing apart a puffy cheddar kulcha bread with gusto. We were quite hungry, as we'd been deliberating over where to eat for a little while. Our boldly flavored appetizers announced the chef's gutsy tastes: a bright pink tuna carpaccio, sprinkled with spicy edamame, was accented with anchovies, and thinly sliced Long Island duck was served with sweet poached figs.

Entrees showcased a pan-Asian flair; I noticed a congee on the menu as well as a Persian-influenced lobster preparation. My companion's monkfish entrée consisted of two generous hunks of cornmeal-crusted fish on a bed of bok choy. I myself enjoyed an entrée that I'm sure I will be returning to on cool fall nights: a hotpot of eggplant and caramelized onion on a bed of lemon rice, topped off with jicama slices and crunchy lentils. Cumin salt was a fragrant condiment.

Although I usually indulge in life-enhancing chocolate for dessert, I decided not to order the malted chocolate crème brulee in favor of the caramel kulfi in a spiced apple Cointreau soup. This dessert was perhaps my only regret of the evening, as the cone of ice milk was frozen solid and impossible to eat with a spoon. Next time, I will indulge in the creme brulee, or maybe venture over to the nearby Kalustyan's Market for 142 pastries, sweets and cookies.

Kalustyan's Masala Café: 115 Lexington Ave., (212) 686-5400.

The $1,000 Eggplant Sandwich

Yes, you read that correctly. But this sandwich won't cost you $1,000; rather, it might make you $1,000 richer! How can this be, you ask?

Well, the folks at Chickpea Restaurant, a little falafel joint in the East Village, are so proud of their roasted eggplant sandwich that they're holding a contest to find the most appropriate name for it.

(And, in a touch of both generosity and marketing genius, Chickpea will allow you to enter the contest as many times as you desire!)

Chickpea Restaurant, 23 3rd Ave., (212) 254-9500. Send your entries to info@chickpearestaurant.com.

Stone Park Cafe

The "culinization" of Park Slope's 5th Avenue continues apace. What was once a dingy convenience store is now a sophisticated bistro, the Stone Park Cafe.

Lately, I've been feeling nostalgic for Park Slope (my old neighborhood), so I met a friend for dinner tonight at this wonderful brand new restaurant. It was only the cafe's second night of being open to the public, but the smooth service was that of a veteran restaurant.

My friend and I began with the rich, creamy baked polenta, which we dubbed the "macaroni and cheese" of polenta appetizers. It harbored little gems of roasted garlic cloves, mushrooms and tomatoes, and was topped with a bubbling, slightly browned, thick layer of Fontina. Good to the last spoonful!

Other appetizers on the menu included pan-seared bluefish cakes, a quesadilla, crab-stuffed shrimp, and spareribs. An octopus salad special, which was described as "between an appetizer and an entree", was decidedly in the small appetizer category. However, it was quite delicious: the tentacles of tender grilled octopus, served on heirloom tomato slices, were liberally spiced with black peppercorns and lightly dressed with lemon vinaigrette. I was still rather hungry after the salad, and wondered if I should have ordered the pan-seared halibut.

My friend reveled in her "Newport steak sandwich." The thick white bread was sufficiently sturdy for the very tender meat, which was draped with caramelized onions. Melted Vermont cheddar provided an extra tasty detail.

Among the desserts were a lemon cake with fresh berries and honeyed goat cheese, a chocolate brioche pudding with whiskey ice cream, and a peach-blueberry cobbler. We opted for the truly amazing double chocolate souffle. The souffle was cooked to order and was worth the wait. I cannot even describe how chocolatey it was; I can only tell you that it was made of dark chocolate with an 80% cocoa content!

Prices were very reasonable; the steak sandwich was $11 and our bottle of red wine was $19. I have high hopes for the restaurant's maintaining its winning formula of creative, high-quality food at Brooklyn prices.

Now I have yet another reason to visit my old neighborhood!

Stone Park Cafe: 324 5th Ave., Brooklyn, (718) 369-0082.

Red Jacket Orchards

It's officially autumn, time to go apple picking! But if you can't find the time to go out to Wilkens Fruit & Fir Farm, just head over to the Union Square Greenmarket on a Monday. You'll breathe in a delicious apple aroma as you walk towards the Red Jacket Orchards stand. At the front of the tent, you'll see a table covered with different varieties of apples cut to sample. The apples have mouthwatering names like Honey Crisp and Ginger Gold. Each bin is labeled with a delightful bit of trivia; for example, did you know that the Empire apple was developed in 1966?

Later, after you've purchased a 5-lb. bag of apples (a steal at $3.50), bake me a pie and I'll be right over!

Le Zoccole

Hearth, with its 28-person waiting list, was not an option tonight. Fortunately, the East Village abounds with excellent, reasonable Italian restaurants, and I was happy to make a reservation at Le Zoccole for a dinner with friends.

After a brief seating snafu, we secured a comfortable table. We then munched on a basket of warm tomato onion focaccia as we perused the menu. The specials included a several types of raw oysters, a skate entree, and a 10-oz. ribeye over garlic mashed potatoes.

We started with some Merlot Kasher Cantina 2002, and continued with the cicchetti (Venetian tapas), a tray loaded with 11 small plates of appetizers. Our favorites were a delectable grilled sardine, soft polenta triangles, fried olives, calamari, and a garlicky salad of cubed octopus, cucumbers and tomatoes. (We were less fond of the rather tasteless stewed beans, but many delicious flavors counteracted them.)

Our entrees were a truffled macaroni and cheese, a pici (hand-rolled ricotta pasta) and a chicken "porchetta". The macaroni and cheese, which arrived in a bowl sprinkled with nutmeg, was fabulously cheesy with pecorino and mozzarella and creamy with ricotta. Although its advertised truffle oil was not much in evidence, I think it would be difficult to find a more satisfying mac 'n' cheese anywhere. The pici (of which a great rendition can also be found at Via Emilia) was a lighter, vegetable-laden pasta dish. The pasta curls were tossed with artichokes, string beans and asparagus. The porchetta, a huge slow-roasted half chicken, was surprisingly rich, slathered with some sort of garlicky butter and served with potatoes, cherry tomatoes and a few sprigs of greens.

The restaurant had now become quite crowded, and when dessert pangs struck, it was difficult to grab the attention of our (very charming) waitress. When we did finally locate her, she sweetly offered us free desserts for our patience. Of course we were thrilled! (Unfortunately, we all wanted the same dessert, so I only tried one kind.) The cioccolatissimo indeed lived up to its superlative. With the touch of a spoon, a gooey hot chocolate mousse oozed forth from its graham cracker surroundings. The whole delicious mess was coated with even more melted chocolate, which converted the accompanying gelato into a satisfying vanilla swirl. Crunchy biscotti completed the dreamy experience.

Le Zoccole: 95 Ave. A, (212) 260-6660.

Sweets News

Here are your Sweets News Stories for September 18, 2004:

The incomparable Beard Papa Fresh 'N' Natural Cream Puffs has indeed opened a new location as of yesterday. You can now indulge in vanilla, green tea, caramel, coffee, or chocolate cream puffs at 740 Broadway (212-353-8888). Enjoy!

A delightful new sweets and bubble tea shop, Cassava Tea, opened up on Tuesday. Tapioca tea and intriguing fruit jelly teas (gingered honey apple, peach lychee) are available, as are various pastries. You'll find Cassava Tea at 474 6th Ave.

The most excellent caramel shortbread cookies, courtesy of One Girl Cookies, are among the many sweet treats offered at Joe (141 Waverly Place, 212-924-6750), a little coffeehouse that is fast becoming my favorite, due to its perfectly foamy cappuccino.

Picnic NYC

As summer draws to a close, you might realize that you've let the whole season go by without enjoying one of NYC's great pleasures: a picnic in Central Park.

I myself had this very epiphany while walking down gritty Chrystie Street last night. I don't know exactly why I turned my head near a sign advertising "gas burner parts and supplies," but I'm so glad I did; if I hadn't, I wouldn't have noticed the Picnic NYC food shop. (It's easy to miss.)

The small, bright store is a sight for sore eyes in the middle of all the industrial supplies dealers. Shelves and countertops overflow with many kinds of locally-produced fruit chutneys, cookies, quickbreads and other goodies. There is a serving dish piled high with mini ham and cheese quiches and a tray full of Nutella panini. There is also a small but wonderful selection of cheeses (Piave, Appenzeller, spicy Gorgonzola Picante) from Artisanal Cheese Shop. Tonight, the gracious proprietor, Lex, offered me a taste of the Gorgonzola and I almost bought a pound right there.

Soon, however, my attentions were distracted by the most extraordinary bread-and-butter pickles. Slightly sweet, spicy with hot pepper and pungent with cumin, they were a many-flavored revelation. They could easily put Vlasic out of business forever. But don't take my word for it: attend one of Picnic NYC's weekly pickle tastings! You have three more chances: September 16, 23 and 30 from 6-8 p.m.

Lex was happy to answer any questions I had, and she could describe each product in impressive detail, from its origins to its ingredients. It was gratifying for me to know that I was supporting a cookie baker from Poughkeepsie and a quickbread maker from Long Island.

Central Park is 51 blocks long, so you'll have plenty of room to spread out your luxurious feast. Fill your basket with Picnic NYC's sandwiches, cheese, pickles and cookies, and enjoy the slight breeze as you watch the September sun begin to wane.

Picnic NYC Inc.: 187 Chrystie St., (212) 420-0028.

A Maitake Dinner

The amazing maitake (otherwise known as hen-of-the-woods) mushroom sometimes grows to be over 50 pounds. It is indigenous to Japan, and is highly regarded for its immune-boosting effects.

This mushroom also happens to be so tasty that Kasuza Japanese Restaurant (Note: renamed Tatany 72 as of mid-2005) has decided to feature a special "Maitake Dinner." The dinner consists of a tempura-battered maitake, a rice and maitake dish, miso soup, a daily side dish, and Japanese pickles.

Tatany 72: 1400 2nd Ave., (212) 472-1700.

Oatmeal Chocolate Chunk or Pumpkin Spice?

Your taste in cookies is a weightier matter than you might think.

Edible Artwork: Lollipops, M&M's and Ice Cream Cones

The Humble Masterpieces exhibit at MOMA Queens reveals these interesting food factoids:

• Lollipops, which originated in Spain, were conceived as a candy that children could eat without dirtying their hands. The treats were called Chupa Chups, and Salvador Dali drafted their original daisy-patterned wrapper in 1969.
  
• During the Spanish Civil War, Forrest Mars Sr. encountered soldiers who were enjoying an intriguing treat: small chocolates encased in a meltproof sugar coating. Inspired by this discovery, Mr. Mars created M&M's.
  
• Italo Marchioni, a Wall Street ice cream vendor, invented the ice cream cone in 1895. His intention was to reduce overhead caused by lost or broken serving dishes.

If you don't have a chance to visit MOMA before Sept. 27, when it closes to prepare for relocation to Manhattan, you'll find many more interesting sweets-related tidbits in Sweets: A History Of Candy.

The Spotted Pig

It was 7:15 p.m. when I arrived at the Spotted Pig, and the crowd of people milling about the entrance was forbiddingly large. I'd heard about the legendary wait to get in, so I hoped I was early enough to put my name down for an 8 p.m. dinner. Fortunately, the wait ended up being exactly 45 minutes; when my friends arrived at 8, the best table opened up. The best table (in my opinion), is the cozy banquette next to the herb windowbox. The room is rather cramped and noisy, and many of the other seats are barstools or chairs squeezed into the space around a brick pillar.

Once we were settled into our table, we munched on olives and almonds, and took stock of the impressive beer menu. Our choices were a creamy Old Speckled Hen, a Pilsner and a raspberry lambic.

The casual atmosphere belied the exquisite food that was to come. Our waitress informed us that organic and seasonal ingredients were used whenever possible, and the appetizer list was full of garden goodies like a red and golden beet salad dressed with horseradish and olive oil, and bruschetta topped with young chanterelles. We ordered the gnudi : five plump ricotta pillows accented with fried sage leaves in the richest butter sauce. We then devoured the duck-egg appetizer, a halved egg soft-boiled until the yellow was slightly creamy, which was nested on a bed of peppery arugula with black olives and heirloom and grape tomatoes.

Entrees were another exercise in bliss: the grilled bass had nicely blackened skin, and was accompanied by a tumble of delicately grilled vegetables: candy-sweet cherry tomatoes and caramelized eggplant. A juicy char-grilled skirt steak came with a chili-spiked two-pepper ratatouille. A wild heap of crisp, well-salted shoestring fries interspersed with rosemary leaves was an addictive side order.

For dessert, the waitress recommended the vanilla ice cream with a choice of blueberries or strawberries. We chose the latter; the fruit was made slightly tangy with a splash of balsamic vinegar. We also indulged in a healthy slice of chocolate bourbon nousse cake with crème fraiche. The French press Danesi coffee was fabulous.

When we finally filed out of the restaurant, there were still people waiting to get in!

The Spotted Pig: 314 West 11th St., (212) 620-0393.

Tomato Treats

The tomato harvest is beginning to find its way into desserts around town! The other night at Cacio E Pepe (182 2nd Ave., 212-505-5931), I spied a green tomato strudel with basil sorbet, and just now I noticed the crumble-topped almond-tomato cake at Financier Patisserie (62 Stone St. , 212-344-5600). "How is that cake," I asked a waiter. "Very good, and sweet," he replied. "The tomato is a fruit, you know."

Fat Witch Brownies

A few years ago, I received the optimal birthday present: a gift tin packed with a dozen Fat Witch brownies. My life has never been the same. These chewy squares of perfection are an unforgettable experience, both in their plain chocolate glory or studded with dried cherries or walnuts.

Although the Fat Witch store is located in the Chelsea Market, you can find their luscious chocolate treats at coffeehouses around the city. When I lived in Park Slope, I picked up my weekly quota of brownies at the Tea Lounge on 7th Avenue. Today, I serendipitously happened upon them at Sicaffe Espresso (29 John St., 212-676-0237), one of my favorite downtown alternatives to Starbucks. Sicaffe only carries the miniature "baby" Fat Witch brownies, but they are devastatingly rich. Have one (or four) with an extra-strong cappuccino triestino.

Fat Witch: 75 9th Ave., (212) 807-1335.

Sable's Smoked Fish

Do not go into Sable's if you have dinner plans. The jovial countermen at this legendary food shop will ply you with morsel after tasty morsel of smoked salmon. "Try this one. Do you like your salmon saltier or fattier?" And then, when you have exhausted the salmon possibilities (Scottish, Irish, Norwegian, Eastern Gaspe, etc.), they will tempt you with smoked trout, eel, sturgeon and whitefish. By now you will be quite stuffed, but you will not be able to say no to crostini topped with the "World's Best Lobster Salad" and the "World's Best Crabmeat Salad."

This is exactly what happened to me today. I went into Sable's with the sole intention of buying a chocolate babka for my grandmother, when I was suddenly bombarded with complimentary bites of Irish smoked salmon, Sable's "sushi" (smoked salmon wraps filled with salmon salad), and lobster and crabmeat salads. My evident appreciation of the snacks compelled the countermen to keep offering me more of them. I could barely concentrate on my purchase.

Of course I bought more goodies than I'd intended to. But just as I was about to make my exit, a voice called after me, "Wait, have you tried our chopped liver?"

Sable's Smoked Fish: 1489 2nd Ave., (212) 249-6177.

Malagueta

The malagueta is an extremely potent hot pepper which grows in Brazil. When blended with olive oil, it makes a piquant molho, or sauce, which livens up any dish. This wonderfully powerful sauce can be found at the malagueta's namesake restaurant in Astoria. (Make sure to ask for it, as it's not listed on the menu.)

Tonight, my friend and I spooned the molho de malagueta over everything but our dessert! We started out with an order of acaraje, tasty black-eyed pea fritters topped with sauteed shrimp and vatapa (a puree of bread, cashews, fish and shrimp. Although this puree was billed as "spicy" on the menu, it was actually rather mild). Since I was a bit too liberal with the hot sauce, I welcomed the opportunity to cool my mouth with exotic juices such as caju (cashew tree fruit juice).

Since it was a Friday, we couldn't order the feijoada (Brazil's national dish, which is only served on Saturdays at Malagueta). So, we enjoyed a shrimp and red pepper stew in coconut gravy, which surrounded a large mound of white rice. I quickly devoured the six jumbo shrimp and then tried my friend's entree, the roasted filet of pollack. The generous portion of delicate, slightly sweet fish was moistened with shrimp sauce and topped with more vatapa.

Sitting behind me was a lively table of people celebrating a "dad-to-be." When I looked to see what goodies they might be consuming, I noticed a plate of mandioca frita. Malagueta offers the fried tuber as an appetizer with grilled Brazilian sausages; it's also an addictive side dish on its own. (I'll order it next time.)

There are three dessert options at Malagueta: milk flan, coconut pudding and passionfruit mousse. We ordered the mousse, which was creamy, refreshing and slightly tart. The accompanying cappuccinos were excellent.

Malagueta offers free delivery to the lucky residents of Astoria.

Malagueta: 25-35 36th Ave., Astoria, NY, (718) 937-4821.

The Grey Dog's Coffee

The stretch of Carmine Street between Bleecker and 7th Avenue evokes the main drag of a college town. Storefronts sell rare vinyl, guitars, used books, and Tibetan jewelry. The Grey Dog's Coffee is right at home in this atmosphere, with its blackboard menu, gargantuan Rice Krispie treats and proximity to the "Unoppressive, Non-Imperialist Bargain Book Store."

Unpretentious and homey, the café appeals to the young and young-at-heart with a menu of fresh-baked goods, omelettes and jumbo sandwiches. The sandwiches are served on your choice of homemade bread, which varieties include olive, jalapeno, 9-grain, basil, and rosemary-garlic. This lovely fresh bread is sliced so thickly as to be sufficient for three sandwiches. Try the tuna melt with cheddar and ripe tomatoes on country white, or the smoked turkey and Brie with sundried tomato and raspberry mustard. If you're in more of a salad mood, the Cobb salad does not stint on avocado.

Accompany your sandwich with a nice strong cup of java and a chocolate-chip cookie the size of a schoolroom clock!

The Grey Dog's Coffee: 33 Carmine St., (212) 462-0041.

Picket Fence

Picket Fence is the first place in Ditmas Park to serve American comfort food! Although this quaint restaurant is delightful enough to be a boon for any neighborhood, Cortelyou Road ached for it. Owner/chef Graham, a fresh transplant from Riverdale, has created a warm and inviting space in which to enjoy his creations. You can eat in either the sunny yellow dining room or the backyard garden where Graham grows thyme, rosemary, and tomatoes.

You'll find many of your favorites at Picket Fence, albeit with a creative twist. Do you crave meatloaf? There's a wonderful turkey version with a side of buttery Yukon gold mashed potatoes and green beans. Looking for buffalo wings and Blue cheese dip? Order the spicy barbequed fried chicken sandwich sprinkled with Gorgonzola. Potato chip addicts can munch away at the chive-dusted garlic potato crisps. If you're looking for a light meal, have a bowl of chilled potato leek soup and a roasted corn pancake with lemon cream and smoked salmon.

For dessert, enjoy the homemade dark chocolate blondies, peanut butter cookies, vanilla-speckled creme brulee and a demitasse of rich double chocolate pudding topped by a cap of fresh whipped cream.

Ditmas Park residents will be happy to know that Picket Fence now delivers. No more traipsing to Park Slope for a burger!

Picket Fence: 1310 Cortelyou Rd., Brooklyn, (718) 282-6661.

Pepolino

This charming, hospitable trattoria, tucked away just below Canal Street, is a favorite of mine. My recent dinner there was a melange of vivid garden flavors; were it not for the sounds of the busy intersection, I could've fancied myself to be enjoying a summer meal in the country. The complimentary tomato-basil "flan," served in a pool of olive oil, was a luscious spread for a basket of crusty Italian bread. I saved a few thick slices of bread to sop up the tangy lemon cream sauce of my fresh tagliolini entree, which was topped with a bit of grated lemon zest. (On occasion, I have also enjoyed the pappardelle with tomato and thyme.)

For dessert, I indulged in the strawberry bavarese: a creamy dome of vanilla panna cotta smothered in strawberry puree. A few sips of espresso completed this satisfying supper.

Pepolino: 281 W. Broadway, (212) 966-9983.

Sweets News

Here are your Sweets News Stories for August 2, 2004:

Australian Homemade, purveyor of psychedelic Belgian chocolates (115 St. Mark's Place, 212-228-5439), will soon open a second location at 18th and Broadway. Australian Homemade sells luscious "Bonzers" (nutty chocolate squares) and "Dreamers" (imaginatively decorated chocolates with creamy soft fillings).

Who knew that cream puffs would become such a sought-after treat? The line at Beard Papa's Fresh 'N' Natural Cream Puffs (2167 Broadway, 212-799-3770) continues to grow. The store owners must have realized that the line will eventually reach the southern tip of Manhattan, so they have wisely decided to open up at Broadway and Astor Place.

Agua de Sandia

On a hot August day, what could be more refreshing than a tall, cool glass of agua de sandia? This traditional Mexican watermelon juice drink is featured at the Downtown Bakery, and I guarantee that it's as effective as a personal air conditioner (at least while it lasts).

Downtown Bakery/Mexican Food: 69 1st Ave., (212) 254-1757.

BLT Steak

If you want to go off your diet, BLT Steak is the best place to do so! The generous portions will tempt the most moderate of eaters. For former Atkins devotees, there are huge parmesan-crusted popovers and 7 different potato preparations. For those who've been avoiding sweets, there are chocolate tarts, lemon meringue pies and carrot cakes. Last night, for the lapsed vegetarians, there was a 21-oz. Chateaubriand special for two topped with foie gras.

My companion and I let a couple glasses of Chateauneuf-du-Papes loosen our ordering inhibitions and we decided on three appetizers, two entrees, four side dishes and two desserts. Now the indulgence would begin.

The waitress brought by complementary duck liver mousse and crostini, as well as the aforementioned popovers. Just one of the puffy breads was almost enough for a meal!

The Parmesan-crouton Caesar salad was terrific, its leaves of romaine well-coated with a garlicky, anchovy-laced dressing. A shrimp cocktail consisted of four giant shrimp and spicy cocktail sauce. The tuna tartare was a sensual square of sashimi-grade tuna, under which was a bed of creamy avocado and a pool of soy-citrus sauce. The crispy shallots and microgreens on top provided an extra zing.

A juicy ribeye steak, served in a big cast iron pan, was marinated in olive oil and garlic. The spiced grilled swordfish arrived in a Moroccan-influenced preparation of tangy preserved lemons, coriander, cilantro and harissa. Our chosen side dishes were French fries with cilantro mayonnaise, the sweetest braised carrot flowerettes, a faintly smoky hen-of-the-woods mushroom, and rich creamy spinach. There were so many pans of delicious foods on the table that it was difficult to figure out what to eat!

Dessert was another dilemma. I normally opt for the most chocolatey selection; last night, a chocolate tart and a peanut butter chocolate mousse competed for my attention. The dessert special, a lovely gooey-centered warm chocolate cake, ended up being my choice. It came with a small oval of condensed milk ice cream studded with a bit of chocolate tulle. My companion delighted in the seemingly mile-high orange-raspberry sundae, a marvelous parfait of orange, vanilla and raspberry with meringue "marshmallows." And I must not forget the chewy chocolate-coffee brownies that arrived unexpectedly. Next time, I'll ask for a bag of them!

BLT Steak: 106 East 57th St., 752-7470.

A Peppery Meal At Lupa

On several occasions, I've been on my way to Tomoe when I've been sidetracked by the delicious scent of garlic wafting from Lupa next door. Tonight was one of those nights; the heavenly aroma pulled me in and deposited me firmly at Lupa's bar.
 
Lupa is a wonderful place for a light summer dinner; one can easily make a varied and filling meal from the antipasti e salume. This portion of the menu is divided into vegetable, fish, Italian cold cuts and salad categories. I'm especially fond of the octopus and garbanzo salad. Tonight, as I decided between the black kale and fried garlic or the lightly vinegared sea bass scabece with arugula (I chose the latter), I was briefly distracted by a plate of paper-thin slices of prosciutto di parma that was on its way to a nearby table. 
 
Although I could have happily continued with more antipasti, I remembered how much I loved the bavette cacio e pepe. This perfect pasta dish is a bowl of linguini-like pasta, made pungent with melted sheep's-milk cheese and spicy with generously sprinkled black pepper. I don't think I could ever tire of it.
 
The peppery experience was unexpectedly prolonged with my dessert order: a flower of apricot-petaled panna cotta highlighted with pink peppercorns. The heat of the spice was a nice counterpart to the cool, creamy custard. 
  
As I exited Lupa, I saw the usual long line of people waiting to eat at Tomoe. I patted my full stomach with a satisfied smile.
 
Lupa: 170 Thompson St., (212) 982-5089.

Benoit

Delicious creamy frozen treats are popping up all over the city. Just two months ago, a wonderful new ice creamery/patisserie opened up on Lexington Avenue to the great delight of Upper East Siders. Benoit Gerin, a Jean-Georges alumnus who has produced fine ice cream in NYC since 1999, has debuted a refreshing menu of iced cakes, sorbets and coupes glacees. On a hot sunny day, what could be more appealing than the Special Benoit: a cup of mango, coconut and passionfruit sorbets topped with raspberry sauce and whipped cream? Or how about the Pear Belle Helene, a poached pear with vanilla and chocolate ice cream, chocolate sauce and whipped cream? (For the diet-conscious, there is also the "skinny juice": carrot, orange and ginger juice. Somehow I think I'll be more focused on the fattening part of the menu.)

Benoit: 1212 Lexington Ave., (212) 327-4369.

Shore

Lounging in wicker chairs, we felt as though we were still on vacation in Montauk. Fortunately for us, a new menu of exotic cocktails was debuting tonight, and we decided to prolong our festivities with two big glasses of "Shore Grog." This deceptively smooth blend of spiced, dark, and coconut rums and pineapple and orange juices was quite potent! (Also on the drink menu was an intriguing oyster martini, which we'll have to try on our next visit.)

We munched on warm cornbread while reading over the extensive menu. As is evidenced by the name, Shore specializes in all manner of littlenecks, steamers, lobster rolls and fresh fish. (For those not inclined towards seafood, there's also a 10 oz. burger and a chicken pot pie.) The daily specials today included a fritto misto and a linguini in tomato cream sauce with two kinds of clams.

I opted for the Boston Batter-Fried Combo Plate, a giant tumble of tasty flash-fried clams, sweet jumbo shrimp, and plump scallops scattered over a filet of sole and accompanied by a large pile of French fries. The seafood was perfectly and greaselessly fried, the batter light and flaky. Long after I was full, I could not restrain myself from dipping yet another fried clam in the addictive coriander cocktail and tartar sauces.

My companion's scallop roll was a generous portion of grilled scallops on a toasted, buttered hot dog roll, served with a side of greens.

A homemade strawberry-blueberry pie with a buttery crumb topping was the perfect finale to a completely satisfying summer meal. (Other dessert options included strawberry pie, rhubarb pie and "North Shore" chocolate bread pudding.)

We'll be back for the Sunday jazz brunch and the weekday happy-hour special: 6 oysters and a pint of ale for $10!

Shore: 41 Murray St., (212) 962-3750.

Chaa Chaa

I never tire of chocolate ice cream. However, on those rare occasions when I venture beyond chocolate territory, I search out the exotic. Yesterday I went to Chaa Chaa, a small Thai cafe/bakery/ice cream shop which offers a truly unique selection of homemade ice cream flavors, such as black sticky rice, coconut black bean, jasmine palm, lychee and durian. (Yes, you read that correctly. The unlikely fruit seems to be taking Manhattan by storm, making appearances in the cream pie at 5 Ninth and the ice cream at Spice Market!) For those of you who prefer more conventional ice cream, there's also strawberry, pistachio and double dutch chocolate.

Chaa Chaa serves a three-course lunch special for $7, which includes a summer roll (basically a salad tightly wrapped into a thin rice flour tortilla), a choice of chicken or beef curry with rice, and ice cream. Who can resist a lunch special that includes ice cream!

Chaa Chaa: 244 E. 13th St., (212) 529-8770.

Cold Hot Chocolate

Just in time for the heat wave, Brooklyn's very own Jacques Torres Chocolate has invented a new, refreshing beverage to soothe one's soul: "Cold Hot Chocolate"! Flavored with a bit of mandarin and served ice-cold, it's the perfect remedy for a day spent on hot subway platforms.

Jacques Torres Chocolate: 66 Water St., Brooklyn, (718) 875-9772.

Munching in Montauk (Part 3: Oyster Pond Restaurant & Bar)

We concluded our trip with a memorable meal at Oyster Pond.

The oak-paneled walls and floral banquettes provided an atmosphere of relaxed elegance in which to dine. Warm rosemary focaccia dipped in olive oil whetted our appetites. We began with lobster gazpacho, a unique variation on the summer classic. This was the perfect gazpacho; pulpy, not vinegary or watery, and slightly piquant. In between bites of fresh tomato were sweet chunks of lobster. Our waitress raved about Chef Anthony Alinovi's homemade stocks and sauces when we remarked upon the excellence of the soup. I also enjoyed smearing a flaky ginger-spiked spring roll in hot mustard. The miso-based dressing on the accompanying green salad was among the best I've ever tasted.

Entree time! A soy-mirin glaze added a touch of salty-sweetness to my grilled yellowfin tuna. The large hunk of fish was sprinkled with sesame seeds, punctuated with pickled ginger and wasabi and served on a bed of sticky rice and julienned vegetables. My companion opted for a grilled pizza covered with wild mushrooms, onions and black olives.

We ended this wonderful last meal in Montauk with a chocolate soufflé. A scoop of homemade caramel swirl ice cream (they also have malted milk ball and chocolate caramel swirl) and ribbons of mango and raspberry coulis were fun to mix with the inner chocolate center of the cake.

Oyster Pond Restaurant & Bar: 4 S. Elmwood, Montauk, (631) 668-4200.

Munching in Montauk (Part 2: Fudge N' Stuff, etc.)

In between that first lovely meal at the Shagwong and the final one at Oyster Pond (which I shall detail shortly), I also thoroughly enjoyed:

Fudge N' Stuff (The Plaza, 631-668-4724): Every beach town seems to have a homemade fudge shop. Most of my childhood summers were spent gorging at Candy Kitchen in Ocean City, MD, so I felt right at home at Fudge N' Stuff. This little shop is chock full of such flavors as Cookies & Cream, Almond Joy and Mud Pie. It's also full of smiles!

Mr. John's Pancake and Steak House (Main St., 631-668-2383): All that laying out in the sun can make a person hungry. Sunbathers should carbo-load with a morning plate of pancakes at Mr. John's. This comfy diner serves many varieties of griddlecakes: chocolate-chip, coconut/coconut syrup, cinnamon-raisin... I opted for some whole-wheat banana pecan cakes, which seemed even larger than the plate they arrived on.

Montauk Bake Shoppe (The Plaza, 631-668-2439): It's no wonder that this bakery has been around since the 50's. The jelly-filled croissants, tomato red onion flatbreads, and lobster-shaped cookies render it a regional, if not national, treasure.

Gosman's Fish Market (Gosman's Dock, 631-668-5645): Although almost everything at Gosman's Restaurant left me cold (except for the sherry-spiked lobster bisque), I was mightily impressed by the gorgeous fish market in the complex, which sells any fish or seafood one's heart might desire, including gorgeous lobsters.

Munching in Montauk (Part 1: Shagwong Restaurant)

As the temperature rose this week, I was seized by an uncontrollable desire to be near the ocean. Most of all, I longed to eat fresh fish and seafood by the water. With visions of baked littlenecks in my head, I hopped on a train to Montauk with a companion.

Although we were to enjoy many delicious meals over the course of the trip, the first and last meals stand out in particular: a dinner at the 30-yr-old Shagwong Restaurant, and one at the charmingly rustic Oyster Pond.

Neon fish and lobsters announced the presence of the salt-of-the-earth Shagwong. Once inside, I was captivated by the nautical atmosphere, and even more so by the giant plates of food. The menu overwhelmed me... the wild Atlantic salmon special tempted me. I finally decided on the yellowfin tuna special; unfortunately, so did my companion. Not wanting to miss the opportunity to try more than one entree, I ordered the broiled local fluke. Each dish came with a choice of codfish cake, beef vegetable soup, green salad or cole slaw. We ordered the salad, and settled on the mussels for an appetizer.

We were astonished when a bowl of 40 large mussels arrived at our table. How on earth were we going to finish this "appetizer"? Dipping the plump, sweet mollusks into our garlic white wine sauce, we did manage to make a dent in the pile of large black shells. I also paid some attention to my delicious salad of tomatoes, red onions, field greens, carrots, radicchio, watercress and cucumbers.

No sooner had we signaled our satiety than our entrees were served. My perfectly moist fluke was slathered liberally with lemon butter and served with a toothsome long-grain rice pilaf and steamed carrots and string beans. I eyed my companion's entree with envy: seared, pepper-crusted rare tuna over greens with ponzu sauce, wasabi and pickled ginger. Fortunately, he agreed to share.

Almost stuffed beyond the ability to breathe, I nevertheless asked what was available for dessert. Apple crumb pie? Key lime pie? Cheesecake? The warm molten chocolate cake was my natural choice; Shagwong's denser-than-usual rendition was enough to satisfy both of us, at least until tomorrow.

More about the trip coming soon!

Shagwong Restaurant: Main St., Montauk, (631) 668-3050.

Nick's Pizza and Bonelle Pastry Shop

As any denizen of the outer boroughs knows, it can be difficult to convince a Manhattanite to meet outside the island. However, since moving to Forest Hills, I have tempted many a visitor with an evening of fantastic pizza and pastries, courtesy of Nick's Pizza and Bonelle Pastry Shop.

Typically, I'll meet a friend at the 71st and Continental stop on the E/F train. We'll walk to Ascan Avenue and then wait for a short while in the doorway of Nick's. Soon, we'll be graciously seated and will whet our appetites with a five-leaf salad sprinkled with plenty of Gorgonzola. We'll order a large white pizza with extra garlic and black olives, which will arrive topped with a thick layer of fresh mozzarella and a sprinkling of basil leaves. (One has the choice of ricotta, mozzarella or a combination thereof for the white pizza, but for me, ricotta seems most appropriate in the context of a calzone.) Then we'll order a pizza with luscious tomato sauce and mushrooms. The crust of each pizza will be thin and slightly charred on the bottom.

The tiramisu is fabulous at Nick's, but I'll want to impress my visitor with the variety of goodies at Bonelle Pastry Shop, which is right next door. We will ooh and aah over the chocolate raspberry mousse, strawberry shortcake, carrot cake and oversized eclairs. Everything is always impeccably fresh. On the weekends, if I crave a particular pastry at Bonelle, I make sure to confiscate it early in the morning. (I learned this the hard way; on more than one occasion, I had arrived just after a Long Island gentleman had driven off with all of the chocolate croissants.)

Pay me a visit soon!

Nick's Pizza: 108-26 Ascan Ave., Queens, (718) 263-1126. Bonelle Pastry Shop: 108-30 Ascan Ave., Queens, (718) 575-1792.

Steve's Authentic Key Lime Pie

Yesterday, I received the news that the best key lime pie in the world will be available at the corner of 48th Street during the annual Ninth Avenue International Food Festival. What makes this pie so extraordinary? Fresh-squeezed key lime juice, a graham cracker crust made with 100% pure butter, and the single-minded dedication of Steve Tarpin (the "Pie Man").

My craving thus awakened, I knew I couldn't wait for the weekend (or for overnight delivery). There was only one solution: to rush over to Alma, the popular Mexican restaurant that offers this amazing pie.

Ninth Avenue International Food Festival: 9th Ave. from 37th-57th Streets, May 15-May 16.

Mary's Dairy (CLOSED as of 10/07)

As I walked down West 4th St. on this warm spring day, I found myself craving chocolate ice cream. I was about to ignore this desire and hop on the subway when I noticed Mary's Dairy, a brand-new super-premium ice cream shop.

The chocolate options were numerous. "Exotic" flavors included "Sandy": Belgian chocolate with pieces of pistachio halvah, "Hawaii Five-O Callebaut": chocolate with Callebaut chips and macadamias, "White On White": French vanilla with white Callebaut chips, and "Ying Yang", milk chocolate with Valrhona chips. I opted for the latter, topped with a generous portion of thick-as-molasses "Inoue" bittersweet hot fudge. The ice cream was not overly sugary, but it was unbelievably creamy. The hot fudge was out of this world!

On a day in which I'm feeling even more decadent, I might try the "Too Much Is Just About Enough!": three scoops of ice cream sitting on a brownie, a Krispy Kreme donut and a homemade chocolate chip cookie!

Mary's Dairy: 171 West 4th St., (212) 242-6874.

Megu

Upon first glance, Megu seems to be a Japanese art gallery. All that is visible from the street is a giant hinomaru; the grand dining room is only visible once you descend the stairs. The cavernous space, housing an ice sculpture of the Buddha, is somewhat reminiscent of the room at Tao. Fortunately, the emphasis on atmosphere does not come at the expense of the food.

My dining companions were late, so I entertained myself by reading through the encyclopedic menus. The food menu includes a long dictionary of ingredients and a map of Japan organized by foodstuffs. The sake and shochu menu offers colorful descriptions of the 60 available sakes as well as a variety of sake trivia. Did you know that the oldest-known Japanese brewery keeps records dating back 860 years?

My hunger seemed to be escalating by the minute, so I was extremely happy when my friends arrived. (One of them mistook Thompson Street for Thomas Street.) We hurriedly set about ordering a great amount of food.

Megu's menu is divided into larger and smaller dishes, rather than appetizers and entrees. We wanted to sample an equal variety of raw and cooked foods; fish is a specialty, as it is flown in from Tokyo's famous Tsukiji Market.

We began with well-salted edamame on the branch (a presentation I had not seen before), red miso soup, and a citrusy "Japanese Caesar" salad. Then it was time for sushi and sashimi: a small chirashi of shrimp, tuna and yellowtail topped with strips of nori and a dollop of the freshest sweet sea urchin; thin slices of yellowtail sashimi served in an ice lantern; and a "black diamond" maki containing three kinds of tuna. We continued the feast with one more raw appetizer: a mound of ikura-studded salmon tartare served with crackers of salty salmon skin.

After a grapefruit palate cleanser, it was time for the cooked portion of our meal. We enjoyed a fantastic yellowtail teriyaki; the sweet rice wine was immediately apparent in the sauce. A whole fried sanma (needlefish) was battered in breadcrumbs and stuffed with three misos. We couldn't get enough of the charcoal-grilled skewers of Kobe beef, chu toro (premium tuna belly) and chicken tenderloin, topped with fried garlic or wasabi sauce. One of my companions was on the Atkins diet, so he enjoyed the meats to his heart's content. I (not being on any kind of diet) accompanied my meal with rice and a glass of Kikumasamune sake.

Amazingly, we (minus the Atkins dieter) were still interested in dessert after all of this. We continued the hot and cold theme by trying a hot chocolate souffle stuffed with sweet black beans instead of gooey chocolate sauce, and a "katekin" green-tea custard. (The willpower of the Atkins dieter faltered slightly, and I spied his fork edging closer towards the dessert plates.)

A soothing cup of genmaicha (popped rice green tea) provided an authentic end to this magnificent meal.

Megu: 62 Thomas St., (212) 964-7777.

Spice Grill (Closed as of 2006)

For many moons, I lamented the closing of Tiffin, a great Indian spot downtown. The graceful service, elegant presentation and richly spiced food made the restaurant one of my personal favorites.

So, I was very pleased to find that Tiffin had reopened as Spice Grill. When I stepped inside today, I was greeted by an impressive lunch buffet. Every weekday morning, Chef Jai Rao goes to the market to decide what the daily dishes will be. Today, the buffet included hot eggplant salad with black mustard seed, tandoori chicken, spicy lamb stew and crispy lentil fritters. I was in heaven as I garnished my plate with salty mango pickles and ladled on the cucumber raita and tamarind sauce. As I sat down to eat, I received a basket of hot crackly buttered nan to sop up the sauce with.

All selections were subtly spiced, greaseless and exceedingly tasty! I assure you that you will never look at an all-you-can-eat lunch buffet the same way after eating at Spice Grill.

Spice Grill: 18 Murray St., (212) 791-3511.

Vosges Haut-Chocolat

Tomorrow, Vosges Haut-Chocolat will debut four of the most innovative ice cream flavors around! Red Fire is a dark chocolate accented with chili and cinnamon, Naga is a coconut white chocolate with a touch of curry, Pandan is a dark chocolate with nutty Southeast Asian pandan leaves, and Wattleseed features Australian macadamias and aboriginal wattleseeds.

If you can't wait until tomorrow for these flavor combinations, stop by today and purchase a Red Fire or Naga chocolate bar. (They're addictive.)

Vosges Haut-Chocolat: 132 Spring St., (212) 625-2929.

Three Great Cups Of Coffee

I'm always searching for good, strong coffee and an inviting atmosphere in which to enjoy it. Here are three cafés where I like to linger over an espresso:

Manhattan: Kiva Café is a surprising oasis of calm right above bustling Canal Street. It's a pleasure to sip from the beautiful mugs sculpted by owner/artist Beebe Okaye. The coffee, made with beans from Red Hook's Espresso Emporium, is terrific, as are the fresh-baked chocolate-chip cookies. There's also a full menu of sandwiches, savory tarts, and salads. A changing installation of original local artwork provides visual stimulation.
Kiva Café, 229 Hudson St., (212) 229-0898.

Queens: Munch Café & Grill (CLOSED), which occupies a quiet corner of Forest Hills, is the place to "eat, drink and unwind." I've enjoyed many a morning with a cup of their French press coffee, brewed with Queens-roasted Kudo Beans. For an extra-strong cup, try the Kenya or Ethiopian Harrar roasts. A jumbo egg sandwich on a roll is only $2.00, and according to the owner, there will soon be a new menu featuring various rice-based dishes.
Munch Café & Grill: 71-60 Yellowstone Blvd., Queens, (718) 544-0075.

Brooklyn On weekends, the popular Half Wine Bar Lounge becomes a lovely spot for a latte, opening at 9 a.m. If you like the coffee at 71 Irving Place Coffee and Tea Bar in Gramercy Park, you'll also enjoy it at Half, because the café uses the same beans. The chocolate croissants and wild blueberry muffins are baked at the nearby Blue Sky Bakery. But if you're still thinking about wine after your muffin and coffee, the tiny shop and library offer a collection of books to educate your inner sommelier.
Half Wine Bar Lounge: 626 Vanderbilt Avenue, Brooklyn, (718) 783-4100.

Black Hound Bakery

Whenever I visit my grandmother, I bring her a cake or a pie. She knows her Upper East Side neighborhood inside and out, so I like to surprise her with treats from foreign lands below 59th Street. Lately I've been delighting her with goodies from the excellent Black Hound Bakery.

It's easy to be overwhelmed by the amazing variety of sweets at Black Hound. Jumbo chocolate-enrobed strawberries, tarts, truffles, cakes, tiny butter cookies, sweet cherries in syrup, and many other marvels beckon to the visitor. Today, feeling like Little Red Riding Hood, I filled a bag with four strawberries, an apple-ginger tart with a buttery cookie crust, a poppy-seed lemon curd white-chocolate-iced cake, and a hazelnut chocolate cake decorated with small candy bees. My grandmother's eyes lit up when I arrived at her apartment and presented her with the bag. She said she would look forward to sampling the sweets after dinner.

Apparently she was satisfied, because according to my aunt, she was later seen licking the white chocolate icing off of her fingers.

Black Hound Bakery: 170 2nd Ave., (212) 979-9505.

My Kitchen Wars

Can you turn out a perfect pate en croute? Do you know how to whip up homemade mayonnaise? You will learn these techniques, as well as some valuable life lessons, in My Kitchen Wars. This stunning one-woman play is based on the memoirs of renowned food writer and chef Betty Fussell.

Superb actress/playwright Dorothy Lyman (as Fussell) invites you into her kitchen to share some "fresh coffee with the taste of bittersweet chocolate." At once, you are enthralled with her portrayal of a woman who has lost and then found herself again through the art of cooking. During the 95-minute play, Lyman prepares a lobster bisque, a lobster salad with lime mayonnaise, and a Grand Marnier souffle. (These food preparations, as well as the many allusions to eating, will leave you quite hungry. Therefore, I recommend dining beforehand! To put yourself in the mood, you might pay a pre-theatre visit to at Bouley to feast on the "Maine Day-Boat Lobster Prepared in an Exotic Manner with Lychee Sugar Snap Peas, Asparagus and Blood Orange" ).

Fussell's life experiences are poignantly described through metaphors about food. She tries to "make a bisque out of the carcass of her marriage." A mayonnaise, the temporary emulsion of oil and lemon juice, is the "momentary truce" of a tenuous relationship. A dockside cafe in Calais serves "real bread and real butter," and is the beginning of Fussell's gradual awakening to the new possibilities in her life.

Watching Lyman at work in the kitchen, I was impressed by her ability to captivate the audience while preparing a three-course meal! Aside from being a great cook, Lyman is an accomplished television actress and director. She will be performing in My Kitchen Wars through May (or beyond), as well as in the Downtown Urban Theatre Festival on May 21.

Singer Melissa Sweeney spices up the production with jazzy interludes, some of them food-related as well. (Salmon and backgammon, anyone?)

My Kitchen Wars: 78th Street Theatre Lab, 236 W. 78th St., (212) 391-1547.

Paula Stevens Burecas

"When I was a girl in Argentina, I loved the sound of the piano," said Paula as she wrapped me up an almond half-moon cookie. "I would always hear the music coming from the neighbors' living rooms, and I wanted so badly to learn to play. But we had my grandmother living with us, so I wasn't allowed."

It is to our benefit that Paula's creativity was instead focused on the art of baking. Her deceptively nondescript storefront conceals amazing stuffed breads: burecas with eggplant, cheese, potato and spinach-cheese fillings. As you buy your first box of six or twelve, she will exhort you, "Whatever you do, don't put these in the microwave!" Two or three of them make a wonderful meal, but I recommend calling ahead, as the eggplant variety sells out quickly. My favorite filling is the chopped spinach and cheese. If you prefer a flaky pastry rather than a stuffed bread, try the "bulemas," which contain the same delicious fillings within layers of paper-thin filo dough.

Paula is at work in her kitchen six days a week, baking cookies and breads for weddings. She lovingly photographs the food at every event she caters, and will gladly show you her photo album. (She will also proudly show you a picture of her son.)

When I asked if Paula's last name were "Stevens", she replied, "No, that was my late husband's name." She then mentioned that she's looking for a nice 68- or 69-yr-old man who enjoys baked goods (80 is too old). Disclaimer: Paula promised me a lifetime of free burecas if I am able to find her such a gentleman; if you know someone, please contact me!

Paula Stevens Burecas: 6379 Saunders St., Queens, NY, (718) 459-7276.

Chocolate for Dinner

This isn't as radical of a concept as it sounds; check out the savory new offerings at Christopher Norman Chocolates. You can start your meal with some of their avocado cream truffles. Your next course will be a peanut butter cup with a touch of fleur de sel. And, starting next week, you'll be able to sink your teeth into a goat cheese Champagne black pepper truffle. It's never been easier to make a meal of dessert!

Christopher Norman Chocolates, 60 New St., (212) 402-1243.

A Working Fireplace in March

It’s March, but the frigid weather has me thinking about chestnuts roasting over an open fire. Recently, I warmed myself by the fireplace in the bar at Public. Last night was especially cold, so I reveled in the crackling fire at the entrance of March Restaurant.

The multi-course meal at March is one of the most elegant experiences one can have in the city. The diner chooses the desired number of courses (we opted for four) from a menu divided into raw, vegetarian, seafood, fish, poultry and meat categories.

As we relaxed into our seats, our waiter brought by a basket of hot twist rolls fragrant with rosemary; I knew it would be a challenge to resist them throughout the evening. The amuse bouche was a salmon wonton, tomato on toast and the chef’s nod to St. Patrick’s Day: a bit of corned beef on a tiny cabbage leaf. Our appetites suitably aroused, we then inhaled our raw courses: thinly-sliced fluke sashimi sprinkled with sesame seeds and chives, and a rosette of smoked salmon accompanied by a dollop of zesty lemon cream and bulgur risotto. The sashimi was lightly dressed with olive oil, reminiscent of the crudo at Esca (another favorite restaurant of mine).

I again resisted the temptation of another dinner roll, and our next course began: seafood for me and vegetarian for my companion. I enjoyed four scallop-stuffed ravioli in a rich tomato cream, while my companion’s dish was a surprisingly sweet maitake mushroom with Japanese green soybeans in a mild parsnip broth.

After relaxing over a glass of Pinot Noir, we started in on our entrees (fish for me and poultry for my companion). My sea bass was perfectly seared with deliciously crispy skin, and it rested on another extraordinary mushroom preparation: black trumpet mushrooms mashed into a tasty, root-vegetable-like paste. A slightly sweet port-wine reduction wonderfully complemented the richness of the bass and a few fingerling potatoes completed the dish. My companion raved about his poached chicken breast, served with roulades of dark meat with spinach and pine nuts in the center.

We were then served a bracing fruit-studded apple-wine gelee to ready our appetites for dessert. At this point I was almost full, but I always have room for chocolate, and this night was no exception to the rule. Two small domes of warm Valrhona chocolate cake were a perfect ending for me, and my companion wasted no time in polishing off his frozen coconut soufflé. (He wanted me to inform you that it reminded him of a frozen Toasted Almond bar.) Then, a plate of homemade almond brittle arrived.

Walking out the door, we again briefly enjoyed the fireplace, and soon we were off into the cold night.

March Restaurant: 405 E. 58th St., (212) 754-6272.